Friday, December 8, 2023

REVIEW: Nodus Sector DEEP

INTRODUCTION:

Nodus began in 2017 and in its short 6 years of existence they have made quite the splash, pun intended. Also, in this time they have established themselves among the “good guys” within the micro-brand space in our community and rightfully so. Their models range from field / sports watches to full on divers. Earlier this year they released the Sector Deep, which is their version of a hyper-focused tool dive watch. I was smitten the minute I saw it and it was only a matter of time before I got my grubby mitts on one to review. If you are a dive watch fan, as I am, there is a lot to unpack with this one, so suit up and let’s Backward Roll into it. 

 

CASE:

The media-blasted stainless-steel case measures 38mm in diameter and a swelt 13.6mm thick, which is quite reasonable considering it is water-resistant to 500m. The most important and requested measurement these days is the lug to lug and this one is 47mm. The latter should make it easily wearable for most wrists, though the end-links do add a little girth, more on this later.

The case is finely sculpted, with chamfers along the edges on both the top and bottom. This modest detail helps slim it out considerably. Tudor uses this on their Black Bay GMT, with a chamfer on the bottom of the case. If you compare it to the standard non-GMT model, you can immediately see the difference. Nodus’ execution of these chamfers creates a greater illusion than Tudor, especially since the case back sits nestled into the wrist.

Speaking of case back, this one is quite the whopper, which is expected for a dive watch rated to this depth. At its center, there is a nicely engraved quadruple Venn diagram (4 intertwined circles), which represents the 4 styles of watch the collection launched with: Sport, Dive, Field, and Pilot. The entire collection uses the same mid-case and can be adapted to suit a variety of needs by changing dials, bezels, hands, and movements. Surrounding the logo are the watch’s attributes, including the serial number. 

The left sided screw-down crown has some of the grippiest knurling I have ever felt. It is fully DLC coated and has a red circular arrow and the word lock on it, to show the user which directly to screw it in. Neat touch, however, when unscrewed the stem feels rather wobbly, but when screwed in it is extremely secure and reassuring. The left side crown is something I have always liked. Especially with one that has this much bite. I prefer it away from the back of my hand and it really works on this model. 

The first watch I ever had with a left sided crown was a Citizen Promaster from the mid-90s. I remember purchasing it because it was so different and kept it because it was so comfortable. More watches should be made available this way. In fact, I wish my Titoni Seascoper was left sided, I still have the scar on the back of my hand, and it has been a year since I moved that watch. Left sided crowns are not just for left-handed people. (fight me)

 

 

BEZEL, CRYSTAL & DIAL:

The precise 120-click, DLC coated, fully lumed bezel on the Deep is something quite special. I have seen other watches with bezels that overlap the case, but none that do it like this one. It is a full 4mm wider than the case, which means there is a 2mm lip that provides a ton of purchase. Forget dive gloves, you could easily manipulate this one with full-on Arctic exploration mittens! It is also 5mm broad, beveled and features a 12hr scale, along with a traditional dive counter. While I do appreciate the 2 scales, it might get tricky if you are travelling to a different time zone to go diving. Mind you, that would be a cool problem to have.

The flat sapphire crystal measures 31mm in diameter (can you tell I got new calipers?) and sits just below the apex of the bezel. There is blue anti-reflective coating underneath, which provides an incredible view of the dial and at certain angles it disappears completely. There is even a bezel on the edge that creates a reflection of the indices, making them look longer than they really are. Very cool effect. 

The deep black dial and hands are very distinct and seem to combine the best elements from a Tudor Pelagos and a Seiko Diver. Like the Pelagos, there is an angled rehaut with cut-outs for the applied square and rectangular markers. The hands are very similar to the ones used by brands like Seiko and Citizen, but not quite. Rarely do you see this style of hands outside of these Japanese companies. The result is quite original and the word “extreme” barely describes its legibility. You could likely read this one from across the room, especially in the dark due to the copious amount of Swiss Super-Luminova® BGW9 Grade A.

The black dial itself just screams dive with me, reminds me of a wet neoprene wetsuit, the effect just screams dive with me. The lack of an abundance of text is also welcome, with the brand name at 12 o’clock, the line name in smaller print beneath it and under the pinion is the model is printed in red, with 500 designating the depth rating beneath that.  The color matched date is at 6 o’clock, thus creating perfect visual symmetry. Despite having an affinity for color matched date wheels, I feel that the reverse would have worked, as the large 12 o’clock marker would have offset the white at 6 o’clock. Not that I am complaining. 

 

MOVEMENT:

The movement in the Deep is the Seiko NH35. This movement is not known to be very accurate, with an out of the box rating of -20 to + 40 seconds per day. However, Nodus regulates every one of them and manages to trim that down to +/- 10 seconds per day, which is quite an improvement. The loaner I have on hand, which has travelled all over the place and been fondled by many a reviewer, is keeping +2 sec per day when worn 24/7 and according to my Accuracy Meter app, it is keeping -2 sec/day dial up. These figures are remarkable and far better than I was anticipating.

What this movement lacks in accuracy anecdotes, it sure makes up in ruggedness. I have known people with watches with this caliber going decades without service and still running strong. I do not know why more companies using this movement do not bother regulating them like Nodus does. It is obviously capable of better performance and its cost is relatively low, which helps keep the overall price of the watch very reasonable.

Specs are as follows:

  • Manufacturer: Seiko (Seiko Instruments Inc. aka SII, Time Module Inc. aka TMI)
  • Caliber Number: NH35A (aka NH35)
  • Movement Type: Automatic, self-winding mechanical
  • Diameter: 27.40mm
  • Casing Diameter: 29.36mm
  • Height: 5.32mm
  • Jewels: 24
  • Vibrations Per Hour: 21,600 bph
  • Shock System: Diashock
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours
  • Rotor Direction: Bi-directional winding (Magic Lever)
  • Hand-Windable: Yes
  • Functions: Central hours; central minutes; central sweeping seconds; date calendar at 3:00 (sometimes other locations depending on the dial design)
  • Hacking Seconds: Yes

 

 

BRACELET:

The stainless-steel bracelet is completely media-blasted, just like the case. It articulates very well and is sized by one sided screws, which is by far the easiest way to size a bracelet. It is 20mm at the lugs and tapers down to 18mm, jumping back up to 20mm at the clasp. The links are 3mm thick and sized for me, the watch on bracelet weighs 159g. Funny enough, the bracelet alone (again sized for me) weighs 79g, so you can see how well balanced it is.  

I was able to easily weigh them separately because the bracelet has quick-release pins built in. Mind you, I could have easily removed the bracelet anyway, as the lugs are drilled through. You can tell the designer had enthusiasts in mind when putting this one together and this watch has strap monster written all over it. On thing I am a little confused about is the end-links. They are solid and female, but the male parts of the bracelet do not fully articulate, therefore making them just like solid male end-links. So, the effective length of the watch jumps from 47 to 50mm, which is not that big a deal, as it wraps very well over the wrist.

 


The twin-trigger clasp suits the watch very well and has a built-in extension, which ratchets out to 4 positions. Two of them covered by the clasp shell and 2 that extend beyond, which in my opinion does not look too good and seems to have some side-to-side play. Luckily, sized for me, I have the extension system completely pushed in and it fits perfectly on my 7” wrist. The only thing I would change is the curvature of the clasp, it is a little too flat for my liking. I also think there may be something wrong with one of the triggers. It seems to stick when pressed in and easily pops open if the second one is pushed. I believe this may be the result of this piece having passed through so many hands over the last year.


 

CONCLUSION

I have owned and reviewed many, many contemporary styled dive watches and for 599$ USD, I cannot think of another that packs in as much dive watch goodness. Sure, there are deeper rated ones, there are more dive specific ones, but there is no other that straddles the line between pure diving tool and everyday sports watch better than this Nodus. If you have ever dreamt of a Tudor Pelagos and/or wanted a Seiko Tuna but did not have the funds or the wrist to pull off the latter. This Nodus may just be the watch for you!

NODUS

OPINION: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part III – What We Value in Watches

 Click on pic:

Love being a part of these joint articles!

OPINION: My Love-Hate Relationship with Accuracy and Precision

 I have had a love-hate relationship with accuracy and precision for most of my life. (click on pic)

You probably think I need a straight-jacket now... lol... 

Monday, October 23, 2023

REVIEW: Héron Marinor

INTRODUCTION:

Another benefit of attempting to build the Canada Watch Guild was the connection I made with Adam from Héron Watches, a Montreal based micro-brand.  Seeing as they were local, I did my best to promote the launch of their first watch on Instagram, the Gladiateur. A somewhat dressy sports watch with 12-hour bezel embossed with Roman Numerals. It was a very impressive watch for its price point, but what was even more impressive was their advert on YouTube:

It is no secret that I am a fan of good advertising and that video, in my opinion, is a masterclass in good marketing. So, when Adam reached out a couple of months ago to discuss their next watch, I was quite excited to get involved. However, how do you top the first one? Would there be a sophomore slump? Adam went on to list off the specs and I got excited. He then sent me pic after pic of all variations and then I started to get a little worried.

Then a few weeks ago, he sent me a message and said, “would you like a week, hands-on with this one?” The minute I pulled it out of its box, my worries vanished. I still think there are too many color and finish options (21 of them), but most are only offered at the initial launch. I just hope it does not keep anyone from deciding on the one they want, because if you thought their first offering was great value, you are in for a real treat!

  

   

 
CASE:

The case for the Marinor is made of 316L stainless steel, measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug to lug and is an impressively slim 12.9mm from the top of the box crystal to the back. It wears extremely svelte on wrist and definitely will not impede any cuffs. The case itself is nearly entirely brushed, except for a delicate chamfer on its edges, which is polished, which is not something you usually see at this price point.

The case back is screwed down and has a very cool engraving of an old-timey sailor. This particularly hits home for me, as my uncle was first mate on a trans-Atlantic grain ship. He would leave for his travels clean shaven, but when he arrived back home with a thick beard. He also wore a hat very similar to the one in the engraving and believe it or not, he smoked a pipe! Funny thing about my uncle is that he hated the food on the ship, so he would drench everything in ketchup. Unfortunately, this spilled over, or rather frustratingly poured over and smacked the bottom into his home life. 

operations and despite the watch’s overall slender size, it is water-resistance rated to 300m. I have saved one of its more impressive party tricks for last. All the stainless steel used in this watch is coated and hardened to 1200HV. This is significantly harder than standard steel, which should help keep it looking factory fresh for a very long time.

 

BEZEL, CRYSTAL & DIAL:

The large, domed sapphire crystal has 3 layers of AR coating on the underside, which helps with glare and gives off those cool blue hues at angles. The 120 slick bezel is also topped with a sapphire crystal and gives off that Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms look. The action is quite clicky and precise, with barely any back play. One thing I do not like is the color of the lume paint on the bezel does not match the aged lume color on the dial and hands. If this bothers you too, fear not, as there are multiple other variants that do not have this issue. 

The dials are mostly gradient style, very tasteful, with applied indices all around. I particularly like the north-star marker at twelve, lending itself well to the nautical theme, without being over the top. Despite looking familiar, the hands are quite original and faceted, yet another feature you do not see on watches at this price point. You can tell a lot of attention to detail has been put into this one. It is also evident in the lack of superfluous text on the dial. Just the logo, brand name, model name and 300m. Metric, as it should be from Montreal.


MOVEMENT:

The movement in the Marinor is the Miyota 9039, which is the same as the venerable 9015 sans date feature. I have owned multiple watches with these movements and of all the Japanese movements, the 9 series Miyotas are my favorite. In my experience, they always overachieve, are robust and for some reason, I have found them easier to line up the hands than any other movement. I am unsure why that is, but it definitely is the case. 

This movement features 24 jewels, 28,800 beats per hour, 42 hours of power-reserve and it is only 3.9mm thick, which is why the Marinor can achieve its thinness. The specifications from Miyota say that the accuracy standards are -10~+30 sec/day. However, this one kept +3 sec/day the entire time I wore it, which is well within COSC standards. 

Way too many people are hung-up over the use of SWISS movements and that is very unfortunate. It does not help that some of them, like the NH series from Seiko and 8 series from Miyota perform very poorly, though they cannot be faulted for toughness. These 9 series can stand toe to toe with anything from ETA or Sellita on performance and help keep the micro-brand prices reasonable. 

 

 

 

BRACELET:

Another place where the Marinor shines is the bracelet. Just like the case, the bracelet is made of 316L stainless steel, which is hardened to 1200HV. It tapers from 20mm between the lugs, down to 16mm at the clasp and also features quick release lug pins for easy strap changes. Though I wonder why anyone would want to remove this bracelet. It is very comfortable, easy to size with traditional one-sided screw pins and it features a very nifty micro-adjust system, which is similar to the one Christopher Ward uses.

The flat linked bracelet is fully brushed, though the clasp has polished chamfers on its sides, to mimic the ones on the case. What a wonderful design touch, along with a tasteful Héron logo. The twin triggers engage fully, and it feels very secure when shut. That said, there is a bit of a larger gap than I would have liked between the clasp shell and the bracelet protruding the back. This is a very minor knit I just had to pick, but nothing too egregious.

The overall comfort could not be any better. They have totally nailed the proportions, the tapering and the weight. It is easy to wear, you almost forget it is there, which is rare for a full steel dive watch, never mind one that is water-resistant to 300m. 

 

CONCLUSION:

The terms “great value proposition” and “bang for your buck” are synonymous in the micro-brand watch world, but if there has ever been a better value proposition, I cannot think of one. You get everything I have mentioned above for the retail price of 620$, but wait there’s more! I just sounded like one of those infomercial TV guys, however I am serious! If you get in on the early bird Kickstarter special, you can pick one up for as little as 435$. The next Kickstarter special is 465$, which is still an outstanding value.

So, if you are in the market for a vintage inspired dive watch, with all the goodies of a modern piece, you have to seriously consider the Héron Marinor. And with all of the options available, you should be able to find one that works for you. I just hope the multiple options do not make it too difficult to decide. Mind you, at this price, you can easily get more than one! 

To take part of their Kickstarter, follow the link below – all the fun starts on October 24th, 2023. 


Monday, September 11, 2023

REVIEW: Circula DiveSport

 This is my first review for Worn & Wound, on the brand new Circula DiveSport: (click on pic)


This was a really fun watch to review. Enjoyed it very much, hope you did to.

Circula

A Flipper's Journey

If you were ever curious as to how I became a serial watch monogamist, this editorial I wrote for Worn & Wound may help you understand. Consider it an origin story, without the Marvel special effects, budget and sexy actors. (click on pic)

Hope you enjoyed the read!

OPINION: When to Sell a Watch

 I recently participated in the following discussion on Worn & Wound: (click on the pic)

Perhaps it will help you with your decision to hold or sell?

Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257

I turned 50 this year and celebrated with a milestone watch. You can read all about it on Worn and Wound, click on the following picture: 


Hope you enjoyed the read.

Grand Seiko

Thursday, December 1, 2022

CANISTER FIELDMASTER - REVIEW

About a year ago, I started, what I thought was going to be a great idea, the Canadian Watch Guild. I had contacted nearly every Canadian watch company I could think of. I received positive replies from most of them, including Marathon. The goal was to establish a community of watch creators that could help each other and foster the Canadian Watch Industry. Similar to what the British Alliance is doing.

You have likely heard the expression “The rising tide lifts all ships”, unfortunately; this is not how it was received. No matter how much effort I put into the project, no one was willing to lend a hand. I had no stake in the game and was putting in hours. Everyone was fine with me promoting their brands and generating awareness, but no one wanted to actively participate. I also heard that there was grumblings of helping the competition.

The long-term goal was to eventually do pop-up shows within Canada, where companies could feature their wares, perhaps even make it a travelling show to the major cities across Canada. Sadly, I was unable to properly convey the “big picture” and I ultimately gave up. The Instagram profile is still up and occasionally I post some Canadian content, but there are a few positives have come from my efforts.



One of these positives is my friendship with Chris Lew (@islandofmisfitwatches on IG), who happens to be the man with the plan behind Canister Watches (@canister_watches). At the time, he was in mid-Kickstarter campaign and I like to believe, our efforts helped push the project over the edge.  The watches are fully produced now and there are happy customers all over the globe. The following is my review of Canister’s first watch, the Fieldmaster.

CASE & BEZEL

 

 

The fully brushed case is made of 316L stainless steel and is unlike any other micro-brand case. In fact, you will find there is very little, if anything, that is similar to other brands. The case measures 41mm in diameter, 50mm lug to lug and 12mm thin, with a 20mm lug width. I have hear many use the term “goldilocks” when stating measurements like these and they are not wrong. This size is right in the sweet spot for many.

The case back is screwed down, with a neat circular engraving, which is meant to look like the base of an artillery shell. The rings represent the primer and the details surrounding are about the watch instead of the projectile. Those details include the water-resistance rating (200m), the lot number, the Canister logo and a maple leaf. The latter detail is a really nice touch. Overall the case is very unique looking and hard to describe, thankfully, we have pictures for that.

The crown is screwed-down and has the most amazing knurling. It looks like diamond plating, but itty-bitty. You would think it would be rough on the fingers, but it is not. Just enough bite to make it a breeze to operate, but not enough to chew up your fingers. The same pattern can also be found on the edge of the bezel, but I will get to that in the next segment. A couple of other things I really appreciate are the lug holes and the straight end opening. This makes most straps look fantastic!

The bezel is one of the features that really shines on the Fieldmaster. The aforementioned knurling on the edge is sweet perfection to manipulate and I swear, the bezel feels so rock solid and precise, I would think it is on a watch with an extra zero in the price tag! It does not feel like a regular click-spring mechanism, but rather ball bearing mounted, like a Damasko or Monta (or others priced even higher). How is that even possible?

The insert is ceramic and sits remarkably flush with the bezel hardware and the sapphire crystal. You really have to see this in person to see how perfectly level it all is. The overall look of the bezel, with its thin surface lends itself well to the field watch design, while still being dive watch capable. Not too many companies can straddle these too genres this well. Kudos to the designer.

DIAL

 

 

 

The dial on my review subject is blue, a dark vibrant color, which is unlike the metallic blue you so often see on many watches these days. In the dark you can still see that it is blue, it does not turn to black, but rather a darker shade. Like many field watches, there are two sets of numeral markings. The larger one for hour markings and smaller, inner one for minute markings. This gives it a very military look.

The 3 o’clock numeral is replaced by the date cut-out and the hour markers beyond the numerals are lumed (C3). Most are lume dots, except for the meridian points, which are triangular. The Canister logo, which looks a lot like Bill Cipher from Gravity Falls (not a bad thing), is prominent under the 12 numeral and the only other word on the dial is AUTOMATIC right above the 6.

The hands are flat polished steel and suit the watch very well. Despite personally preferring polished hands and the reflections they give off, I wonder if white painted hands would have been better suited for this military no-nonsense design.  Either way, they are plenty long enough for the dial, something many watch brands fail, and are super easy to read.

MOVEMENT

The movement beating life into the Fieldmaster is the venerable Miyota 9015. I have owned many watches with this caliber and it has quickly become my favorite Japanese movement. Not only does it perform well, it is very easy to set. I have found with Seiko (NH) movements, you have to fiddle with them several times before you get a perfect line up with the hash marks. Yes, I am one of those people! With the 9015, you do it once and boom, all lined up.

SPECIFICATIONS
Brand:   Miyota (Citizen)
Caliber: Number 9015
Movement Type: Automatic
Jewels: 24
Linges: 11.5”’
Diameter: 26mm
Height: 3.9mm thick
Vibrations Per Hour: 28,800 bph
Shock System: Parashock
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Lift Angle: 51 degrees
Hacking: Yes
Hand-Windable: Yes
Rotor Winding Direction: Clockwise (uni-directional)

Credit: Caliber Corner © 2022, Source: https://calibercorner.com/miyota-caliber-9015/ 

Mine has been performing very well, but do not just take my word for it, check out the Watch Accuracy Meter screen capture! Very impressive numbers out of the box! Honestly, with performance like this and ease of operation, do you really need a Swiss Movement?

 BRACELET / STRAPS

  

 

 

 

Let us start with the great and that is the clasp! Thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU Canister for not going with the giant, clunky and out of place clasp most micro brands use. You know the one. The one with the terrible double push-button extension that most try to pass on as micro-adjustment, but looks horrible when open from the sides. Instead, this one is a milled clamp shell with, get this, six holes for micro-adjustments!

Beginning of rant. (in the voice of Lewis Black) Sliding push-button extensions are overrated. Do I like them, sure, do I need them, absolutely not. Neither do most of you! On the fly adjusting because you are bloated my butt! 10 years ago, no one needed these things and we were just fine enjoying our watches. Ever see someone at a restaurant take off their watch and adjust it because they had a salty meal? No. You see them adjust their belt and that is it. Besides, just like electronic seats in a car, give people too many options, you spend half your time fiddling with it and trying to get the right comfort and you are never happy. End of rant.

As for the bracelet links themselves, they are fully brushed and tape from 20mm at the lugs to 18mm at the clasp. They are sized by split pins, which is pretty easy to size and quite common for watches in this price category. And then we come to the not so great part of the bracelet, the male end-links. These bad boys bring the overall length from 50mm to nearly 60mm. Now they do curve down considerably and this does help with the fitting, but it is too long in my opinion. A straight end link would have been perfect. Having said all this, seems to fit fine on my 7.5” wrist, but on anything smaller than 7”, a strap would likely fit better.

I was fortunate enough to receive the Fieldmaster with a tropic style rubber strap, which looks and feels fantastic and a very impressive NATO strap, with matching hardware. Unfortunately, I am not a fan of NATO straps, never have been, but for those that enjoy them, I believe they will be impressed with its quality. The rubber feels like silicon and is extremely supple. If the bracelet had not worked on me, I would likely have chosen the latter for my every day wear.

 PACKAGING

For those of you that are familiar with my reviews, you will know that I rarely, if ever, talk about packaging. Most of my watch boxes clutter my closet and are a source of contention with the wifely unit. However, Canister has you covered, as it does not come in a box per say, but a well… a canister! A brown tube, which seems to be half the length of a Pringles can, that opens from either end.

Inside the canister was a waxed canvas watch roll, with leather hardware. Once unfolded, you have four watch spots. One for the watch, two for the extra straps and I used the last one to store the MANY extra links. When I say MANY extra links, I mean I had to remove six of them to fit my aforementioned 7.5” wrist. So even a Canadian Sasquatch should be able to wear this one without needing more links. Anyway, back to the watch roll. What a welcome way to receive a watch. Not only is it super cool, it will be functional and will not just collect dust and ire from my wife.

CONCLUSION

Have you noticed how I have gone nearly 1700 words without ever mentioning the price? I did that on purpose, as I was saving the best detail for last. Canister is selling the Fieldmaster for 399$, yes, you read that correctly, three ninety-nine! In addition, that is in Canadian funds! At today’s exchange, it would be 297$ in USD and get this, shipping is included!

I know, I know, I was a little liberal with the exclamation marks, but seriously, if that is not a bargain, I do not know what is. I bet it would be spectacular on one of those 20-30$ Amazon shark-mesh bracelets, so if the end-links are an issue, who cares! You are getting so much watch here, that if you want to try other bracelet or strap options, there should still be plenty left in the piggy bank to do so.

I honestly cannot think of a better value proposition right now than this Canister Fieldmaster. You get everything you would ever need in a field watch with dive watch capabilities. Sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel, bulletproof movement, excellent build quality. I mean, what else could you ask for?

What are you doing still reading this review? Go to the Canister website and get one for yourself now!

CANISTER WATCHES