REVIEW: Formex Essence Dégradé

INTRODUCTION

I have been collecting, buying, selling and trading watches online for over 20 years. In that time, I have owned many, many obscure, unknown brands. In fact, I think I was one of the first to review a UTS watch and who here remembers Japy? All exceptional creations, but while UTS is still going strong, brands like Japy and many others have fallen to the test of time.

That said, we are now witnessing a new surge in micro-brands and they are filling the void many of the traditional houses are leaving behind. Brands like Halios, Farer, Monta and Oak & Oskar are redefining the cost of entry into our horological world. Another one of these brands is Formex.

Unlike some, Formex is an older name, with which I have a past affiliation. Prior to severing ties with InSync Magazine in the mid-aughts, I was getting set to review a crazy new brand with a case suspension system no one had ever seen before. The watch was very large, and it sat at a weird angle on the wrist. It was supposed to absorb shocks like none other. Unfortunately, I never got a chance to see one in person.

Almost 15 years later, Formex is reborn, under new ownership, but maintaining its suspension system. Just like Ball Watch and their tritium tubes, the case suspension system is in Formex’ DNA. When they decided to enter the stainless steel, daily wear, sports watch segment, the case suspension system was incorporated, and the Essence was born.

I have now lived with this watch for close to two months and I have concluded that, in today’s market, you would be hard pressed to find a greater value proposition than the Formex Essence.  In the following review, I will attempt to explain why I feel this way and hopefully, you will come to a similar conclusion.

CASE

 

The 43mm wide by 50mm lug to lug stainless steel case is somewhat cushion shaped, with multiple exquisite angles that show off its brushed vs. polished facets. The finishing on the case is unlike anything else at this price point. No sharp edges, not hot spots, you can easily tell that it is hand finished. It really is that good! The bezel is polished on its edges and vertically brushed on its top. Also hand finished.

 

The case back is fully brushed and held down by 8 screws that surround the sapphire glass that displays the fully decorated movement. The 4 screws on the front of the watch support the suspension system that needs to be seen in person to fully appreciate. When you press on the case from the bottom, the bezel literally lifts off the case! In other words, there is an inner case that is sitting on a suspension, which will help absorb any shocks your wrist will encounter.

 

It really is impressive how this is all integrated into the watch and done so seamlessly, you would never know its there. In fact, Formex has gone to great lengths to keep this watch extra slim. With all of this and a water resistance of 100m, it is only 10mm think! Can you believe that?  Finishing off the case is the large polished crown, which does not screw down, but is engraved with the allen key logo that is now synonymous with the brand.

CRYSTAL, DIAL AND HANDS

 

The flat sapphire crystal is 34mm wide, has anti-reflective coating underneath and sits flush with the bezel. The large opening displays an astonishing brown/copper fumée style dial, which Formex calls Dégradé. Combined with the horizontally engraved stripes and polished applied markers to create an exquisite dial I would have never expected from a watch at this price.

 

The hands are multi faceted, with a mix of polished and brushed surfaces, that catch the light at all angles. The dial uses BGW9 Super-LumiNova, which looks great when charged, but unfortunately do not last all night long. Luckily the facets on the hands capture any light in the room and I can still read it in the early morning.

 

Symmetry is design element I find extremely appealing. Having the date display at 6 o’clock, is one of those design choices that lends itself to a symmetrical dial and I applaud it. Speaking of the date window, have a look at the bevelled edges of the display! I have never seen anything like it before. Little details like this make this dial truly special.

 

One other thing I have noticed, and I believe it was deliberate in order to keep the slim profile, is the use of such a short stem for the hands. I do not remember ever seeing another watch with hands so close to one another. Kudos to Formex for going the extra mile and trying to keep it as slim as possible.

MOVEMENT

The Dégradé model comes with a highly finished (down to the base plate) chronometer grade, COSC certified, Selitta SW200-1. It also sports a custom Formex rotor, which has real thermally blued screws! So much has been written about this movement and its clone origin, the ETA2824, that I need not get into too many details. That is except to say that mine has been performing at a consistent + 2 sec/day, whether sitting on my winder or worn 24/7.

 

Should you want an Essence but feel the COSC a tad too expensive. Formex offers a non COSC certified version with a genuine ETA 2824 beating inside for a substantially lower price. This is quite impressive, as I am sure that this one is just as reliable and should perform well within satisfying parameters.

BRACELET

 

If you have yet to be impressed with the Formex Essence after reading all of the above, the bracelet just may be the feature that will push you over the edge. Measuring 22mm between the lugs, the bracelet is fully articulated. I know Monta likes to post amazing pictures of their wonderful articulated bracelet on Instagram, saying “can your bracelet do this?” Well, this one can and because the links themselves are so short and thin, it is like wearing silk rather than steel.

 

Each link is finished to the nth degree. Fully brushed, except for the edges, which are polished, it grabs the light and sparkles, as if it was a multi faceted diamond. In fact, my boss has 2 Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks and in a meeting, he noticed my Formex and said, hey your watches kind of looks like mine. Now I am not saying the Formex is in the same league as AP, BUT the bracelet catches light and does glint like a Royal Oak. Now THAT is impressive!

 

I would also like to point out the end links that attach to the case. You can tell a lot of thought have gone into them, just by how sharp and precise they are. They are also attached to the base by a very impressive system that allows you to remove the bracelet without tools. I have seen a similar system on Christopher Ward watches (speaking of value), but this one is much more refined and secure.

 

All of the links are secured by screws and at the clasp, there is a quick adjustment link that flips open, reminiscent of Rolex bracelets. The CLASP! The clasp is just as impressive as everything else on this watch. It is very similar to the Omega Railmaster, with one side snapping into place using ceramic ball bearings and the other using twin push-buttons. In fact, I would even go as far as to say, it is superior to the Omega. It is thinner, slimmer and more comfortable, as the Omega’s is too long and thick.

CONCLUSION

 

It is rare, extremely rare to see a watch that sells for 1265$ USD (shipped from Switzerland, with duties and taxes included) to have so many custom features and hand finishing. Usually you see some corners being cut and it would be understandable. In order to be at a certain price point, something usually must give. Not with the Formex Essence! I see no corners being cut, everything they could think of and do for the sake of improvement, they have done.

 

You know the expression “more than the sum of its parts”? In the case of the Essence; you mate an incredible bracelet, with a fantastic clasp, to a totally original, suspension case, that houses an unmatched dial and what do you get? A superb everyday sports watch that is equally as beautiful as it is functional, and I did not even mention the superlative movement beating inside!

I honestly feel that if you are looking for a GREAT sports watch, that will not break the bank, but will still impress even the most exigent connoisseur, the Formex Essence could be just the ticket. To find out more about Formex and see all of their other models, including many variations of the Essence, follow the link below.

Thank you for reading!

Formex