It is no secret that I have a soft spot to Formex watches. Especially after having reviewed their Essence model and interviewed their CEO, Raphael Granito. In a world of Rolex clones and wannabes, Formex has created something truly special. A homologous design language of their own. Even at a glance, you can easily recognize a Formex from a distance. Last year Formex launched the REEF, their newest dive watch and they continue to do their thing, their way… the Formex way!
The REEF does not look like any other dive watch. While some feel it borrows a few slight design cues from others, I say some of their choices came through organically. You know what they say about great minds. They think alike. Despite being over a year late with this review, how about we plunge right in.
CASE
The REEF’s case measures 42mm in diameter and only 11.4mm thick, but this does not accurately describe how this watch fits. Its short 47mm lug to lug measurement, along with its downward pointing male end-links make it a joy to wear. Even on smaller wrists. Some may not like its case protrusion on the 9 o’clock side, but you cannot deny it adds perfect visual symmetry.
I have heard people say it borrows this characteristic from the Patek Philippe Nautilus, yet so many brands mimic this design and some quite successfully. Laventure watches come to mind, so does the Scrufa Treasure Seeker. The way I see it, if you are trying to accomplish visual symmetry and balance, that is how the design would organically develop. Besides, I can think of worse things than being compared to an iconic Gerald Genta design.
The case is nearly fully brushed stainless steel, except for the beveled top edges, which are polished to a high shine. The cased back is slick and completely brushed, with a very tasteful wave engraving and their new logo, though not so new by the time you read this (my bad). If you look very carefully, you will find lines demarking the back of the lugs against the rest of the case. The latter need not be there, but it is as tiny little detail that adds refinement and care. It is exceptionally well crafted; you can tell a lot of thought went into this watch.
The crown is enormous, with plenty of grip and sits perfectly between its form fitting guards. You would think a crown this size; with this much purchase would leave marks on the back of ones wrist or hand. It does not. The whole case just sits so perfectly on the wrist and as Formex mentions on their site, the wearing thickness is just under 10mm. That is astonishing considering this watch is fully water-resistant to 300m.
DIAL
If you recall, a little earlier I mentioned the word symmetry. There is more evidence of this when it comes to the dial. With the date centered at 6 o’clock and the hour markers all equal in length, except for the double up at twelve, which is larger. Each precisely executed hour marker is sloped towards the center of the dial and is a luxurious mix of brush and polish, a la Grand Seiko. This is a master class in dial balance and would you look at that, half way through the review and already been compared to Patek Philippe and Grand Seiko.
Just as on the Essence, the date aperture is beautifully scalloped, which has now become a continuous Formex design element. Speaking of the date window. Please have a close look at the pictures and see if you can spot what I have discovered. The date wheel is white print on a green disk; however, the color does not match the dial. What a shame, but au contraire, it is not a shame! Look very carefully. The disc color actually matches the base of the ceramic bezel embossing! When I first noticed this, I was smiling from ear to ear. I am not 100% sure this was intentional and/or perhaps this is limited to the all green model, but I absolutely love it.
The hands is where I have a small issue and it has to do with just that, they are small or rather short. Nothing really wrong with the hour hand and the second hand is fine as well, but I would have much preferred the minute hand reach the outer minute track. There is so much dial real estate; I see no reason why it is so short. Now, having said this, when the minute hand does reach the hour markers, it is a thing of beauty. Maybe the slanted hour markers did not permit the minute hand to be any longer. I had not thought of that until I just typed that out. Criticism aside, just like the hour markers, they are a mix of brush and polish, and look like they would be at home on a Grand Seiko. There’s that brand again.
The new logo on the dial looks amazing and the minimal dial text is equally perfect. Once again, have a look at the symmetry and balance. The brand name and the model name are exactly the same length. The word CHRONOMETER and SWISS MADE also look like they are the same width. These little, insignificant details may not seem like much, but they aid at being pleasing to the eye. Studies have shown that humans perceive symmetrical faces as more attractive. I believe someone at Formex understands this very well.
BEZEL
What can I say about this bezel that has not already been said. It is a work of art and it must have been a pain the rear end to develop. High-tech ceramic is not the easiest to work with, never mind making an embossed gradient scale. The impression in person is remarkable and the contrast between the raise polished numerals vs. the lower mat bottom is equally impressive. I was worried that the similar colors would wash out the numerals, but I was worried for nothing. It is difficult enough to get good impressions from pictures online and videos on YouTube. In person, it is absolutely fantastic.
Unfortunately, the bezel action on mine left much to be desired. It was perfectly centered, barely had any play, but it felt very spongy and for some reason, it left a “cheap” feeling behind when using it. I have had more than one-person comment on this when turning it. Now, mine is one of the original REEF models, so I do not have the newest version with interchangeable bezels. I have a feeling that instead of just improving the action, Formex went out and made them interchangeable. That is what I have come to expect from this company. Why just fix something when you can completely improve it and add some new customization.
MOVEMENT
The movement in the REEF is the chronometer certified Selitta SW300, which is a clone of the ETA2892. I know all about the debate of in-house movements vs. plug-in play movements like this one. Sure, it would be super cool to have a new in-house Formex movement, but how cool will it be when you need to get it serviced and the only people qualified to handle it are in Switzerland. I have no issues with using a Selitta or ETA movement. Especially this one, as many high-end brands have been using it for years. Ulysse Nardin, Omega, IWC, Breitling (actually Breitling uses the ETA 2824/Selitta SW200) and so many others costing thousands more.
This movement is nothing to sneeze at. It is robust. It is slim. It is easy and inexpensive to have serviced. In addition, best of all, it is accurate and consistent. I hate the expression “proven workhorse”, but that is exactly what this movement is. My REEF has been +2sec/day and it has never faulted.
The big “in thing” these days is power-reserve. ETA slowing down their beat rate to gain 80hrs of reserve for their proprietary brands. Oris has their new 120hrs Cal 400. Tudor has their 70hrs movements. Even Seiko has upped theirs, but here is the question; do we really need such power-reserves? Alternatively, are larger numbers just selling points? Look at me, look at me, mine is bigger! In well over 30+ years of collecting, I have never said I wish I had more power-reserve. Besides, if my watch has stopped after a couple of days, BONUS, I get to interact with it more than just strapping it on. Perhaps it is just me…
BRACELET
I thought the bracelet on the Essence model was absolutely outstanding and I did not think Formex could outdo themselves. Yet they did! Not only did they outdo themselves, but they also outdid most of the industry. The fully brushed bracelet is 22mm at the lugs and tapers down to 20mm at the clasp. All the individual links are fully articulated and standard screw bars are utilized for sizing. It is a rather thin bracelet, which adds to the wearing comfort. If you have never held or worn Formex watch, you are in for a treat, there is nothing like it.
The clasp is pure magic. I could just stop there, as that is an accurate description, but after 1500+ words, why should I start being concise now. It is solid and closes tight. It has dual push-button activation and it is relatively short. It is hard to believe, looking from the rear that underneath the shell, there is a push-button micro-adjust system. Would you also believe it has 10mm worth of play, to make dialing in the perfect fit a breeze?
Between the micro-adjustments and the short links, if you cannot obtain the right fit, I just may have to fly over there and smack you upside the head. In other words, you are not doing it right. On a side note, I have now seen similar clasps on other watches, most recently on the new Montblanc Iced Sea dive watch. As stunning as the latter watch is in person, it is also 1340$ USD more expensive, has the same depth rating and its movement is not chronometer grade/rated.
CONCLUSION
Formex remains at the top of their game, having introduced a new field watch and most recently a GMT version of the REEF. I personally love the back/blue bezel on white dial. In fact, it is taking everything I have to keep me from clicking the PRE-ORDER NOW button. Formex really knows how to execute a while dial. Here is a picture of the one I would want.
By blackening the hands and markers, you illuminate the wash out effect you would normally get on a while dialed watch, but I digress. I am here to talk about the standard dive version of the REEF. If you are looking for a fun, well built, well thought out design, with supreme comfort and usability, look no further. The REEF just may be the dive watch you are looking for (Jedi hand wave).
In all seriousness, I am so happy for my friend Raphael and Formex, for what they have accomplished in such a short amount of time. The future is so bright and while, for now, you may not have the same brand “cachet” while wearing a Formex, you will however be wearing a watch that you can be exceedingly proud of.
BONUS PICTURES
No comments:
Post a Comment