Thursday, August 31, 2017

DELTAt NBS Bronze - PHOTO ESSAY


I recently acquired this incredible timepiece and decided to bring it with me to Greece this summer. It was much warmed than I had remember, though my previous Hellenic vacations have been during the "off-season". This was my first time during peak. Not only was it almost unbearably hot, there were humans everywhere!

Luckily, the beaches were in abundance and swimming with this beast on my wrist was a joy. I also wanted to see what the salty sea / sweat / sunscreen and the occasional pool would do to the patina. As it turns out, it looks better now than it ever has. That is one of the pleasures of owning a bronze watch. Seeing it mature with time.

Here is what it looked like when I first received it:

 

Now for some pictures in wonderful Greece:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

I was hoping to wear it more often, but instead opted for the more reasonably sized Oris. Not because I could not pull off the size, but because nothing can be much less comfortable than 300g of bronze stuck to your sweat and sunscreen soaked wrist in +40C heat... 

That said, it performed admirably and I received compliments when dining our one night in Santorini. The latter has shops that sell Audemars Piguet, Hublot, Patek Phillippe and of course Rolex, just to name a few. So to get noticed among that crowd says something about this design.

Here are the specs for this beast:

Movement: 
  • Japan Miyota Automatic Movement 
  • Cal. 8N24 Manual/Automatic winding 
  • 21 jewels 21,600 vibrations per hour 
  • more than 40 hours power reserve when fully winded 

Hands: 
  • Lumed Hour, Minute hands 

Case: 
  • 49mm diameter excluding crown 
  • 66mm from lug to lug 
  • 20.2mm thick Aluminum Bronze Satin and Sandblast finishing 
  • Screw-down 
  • 316L Stainless Steel Inner 
  • Bottom Cover with Mirror finishing Logo 
  • 316L Stainless Steel Outer Bottom Cover 
  • Three Main Screws locked Bezel and Outer Bottom Cover 
  • Automatic Helium Escape Valve 

Dial: 
  • Antique Style Dial with Lumed index 
  • Windowed Dial to see-through the Balance Wheel and Pallet Fork 

Crown: 
  • 7.7mm diameter with cross-diagonal pattern screw-in Crown 

Crystal: 
  • Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflection coating 

Water Resistant:
  •  1,000m/3,300ft (100ATM) Water Resistant 

Straps: 
  • 22mm width / 5mm thick One set of 
  • 90/130mm fine genuine leather straps 
  • One set of 90/130mm unique canvas straps 
  • Uniquely designed Aluminum Bronze Buckle and Loop
I am not going to do a full review of this one, as I feel Jim Skelton has done an excellent job reviewing it on Youtube. Here is this review:


So if you are looking for something really off the beaten path and are not afraid to take chances, get yourself one of these DELTAt NBS models. You will not regret it!

DELTAt

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

Ball Fireman NECC Diver - REVIEW


I am definitely no stranger to Ball Watches. In fact, I would say, I am rather intimate with the brand having owned so many. How about a list? (in alphabetic order)

Alright, I had never done that before… enumerate them. I am almost embarrassed now and the word I used above, “intimate” is quite the understatement.


The Fireman NECC Diver, which is the subject of this review, is the 21st Ball watch to enter my collection. It is VERY different from all of the others above and represents extreme value for the brand. When most companies are going higher and higher, Ball has not forgotten about their core audience. The collectors that made them what they are today and for this I am extremely grateful.

CASE & BEZEL

The 42mm case is made of brushed stainless steel and is only 13.2mm thick. The latter is impressive considering its 300m water-resistance, especially in a world where divers are so large. Mind you, this attribute is trending down as of late, perhaps Ball is ahead of the curve? If you look closely, you can still see some distinct Fireman DNA, specifically in the lugs, but the design is more accentuated. I like this a lot.


One of my favorite attributes on any given Ball watch is the incredible engravings on their case backs. From a Guillaume Nery “doing his thing” to a beaver with a Canadian Flag on my old CRTS, they are rich and wonderful to look at.

Unfortunately, the case back on the NECC Diver is not engraved, but fear not! It is far from being mundane! Not because you can see a rather run-of-the-mill ETA 2824, but because on the inside of the display glass, there is a rendering of the Navy Expeditionary Combat Command (NECC) logo on it. Though this rendering, you can glimpse some of the inner workings keeping your timepiece alive and ticking. I do not recall ever seeing something like this before.


This is a solid 42mm case, with a thickness of only 13.2mm. This makes for a very wearable diver, which is still capable of an impressive 300m of water-resistance. It is a refined (yes, refined on a Fireman model) mix of brushed and polished surfaces, which include a nicely engraved screw-down crown. Due to its short lugs, it wears much smaller than its measurements and is very refreshing, as opposed to today’s behemoths. I am starting to think I may be headed back down in the size department and THIS may be the watch that is the catalyst for this trend…

CRYSTAL, DIAL & HANDS


The dial is very clean and easy to read, with a raised chapter ring, which accents the meridian points at 5 minute intervals. The combination of black and orange, combined with the textured surfaces on the dial, as well as the multiple levels really make the dial pop. There is just so much going on. I really was not expecting this from an entry-level diver. Once again, I would have preferred a black date right with white numbers, but… but… the opposite somewhat still works, as it contrasts well with the tritium marker at 9 o’clock and helps balance the dial.


Yes, I have gone and said the T word! TRITIUM! One of the reasons we all love our Ball watches is the nighttime readability. It really is incredible, for the lack of a better word. Now, I would have liked to have seen a variety of colors used, instead of the “usual” green, but you cannot complain about its effectiveness. At no point, ever, was I not able to ready the time. I feel it is redundant to even be talking about Ball’s prowess in this category… let us just say, if you have never owned a Ball watch, you are cheating yourself out of one of the pleasures of being a watch collector. I will leave it at that.


The bezel is supposed to be made of some kind of steel carbide. I have heard this mentioned a handful of times, without any explanations. Not exactly sure what it means, but it should be less prone to scratching and scuffing than regular steel. It also looks like a ceramic bezel, with its highly polished black surface. In fact, there are a few reviews on-line that claim it is ceramic. It is not. What I can confirm though, is that I have had mine for quite some time and it is still in perfect condition (the bezel), despite having had a few close encounters of the furniture kind. My only gripe is that there is no lume on the bezel. Not a deal breaker for me, but I can see how it could be for some. If all of the hour markers were the same color, then it would have been for me as well, but this is not the case.


The hands on the NECC seem to be quite polarizing. I for one love them. Kudos to Ball for attempting to be original, while at the same time honoring vintage watches of yesteryear. The “broad-arrow” style has been around for ages, yet looks refreshing on this dial.  I was worried that the paint on the tip of the hour hand would look flat, but it does not and sits recessed in the cut-out on the hand. Really quite impressive. They are also faceted and not flat, which help reflect the light and avoids being washed out at certain angles. All these little details are rarely seen on timepieces at this price point.

THE MOVEMENT


What can I say that has not already been said about the venerable ETA 2824? Nothing. It is a good, solid, if not pedestrian movement that can be equally accurate and consistent. Likewise, mine has been well within COSC performance, as you can see by this chart:

I started using this WatchCheck (Android App) on my phone a couple of years ago and it is a wonderful tool. I highly recommend it to anyone who likes measuring the performance of their watches. WARNING: it can get quite obsessing…


BRACELET


Now after owning 20+ Ball Watches, I think it is safe to say I have seen almost every bracelet type they make. From the ultra rugged Hydrocsabon to the almost delicate Skindiver, I have tried them all and what I am about to say, may shock you. THIS IS THE BEST BRACELET THEY HAVE EVER MADE and unlike many of the others, which are found throughout their respective lines, this one is only available on the Fireman NECC.


What makes it so good? Well, if you look carefully at all of the individual links and how they hinge together, you can see how you can get such a tight feeling bracelet, while still remaining supple and without pulling any precious arm hair.  Hey! I live in Canada, we need all the warmth we can get! In all seriousness, it reminds me of a Blancpain X-71 bracelet. That is how tight the tolerances are and the latter alone costs more than the entire NECC Diver! It is also quite hefty and super solid, with brushed sides and screws for sizing.


Now the clasp is nothing new, it is the same milled clasp as first seen on the Hydrocarbon Mad Cow Limited Edition. I have owned a couple of watches with this clasp, including just recently the Skindiver II. It is a tremendous clasp, with tiny retaining bearings and super secure feel. The difference is that on this bracelet, the clasp WORKS! Oh it worked fine on all those other watches, but it always sort of looks like an afterthought on those. Like an add-on. In fact, on the Skindiver II, it felt and looked like I had a watch on both sides of my wrist… Not on this bracelet! It looks perfect, almost flawless and is also polished on the sides.

The whole package is so well balanced, I could seriously see this bracelet combination on a watch in the 5,000$ range and it would not be out of place.

CONCLUSION


My entire collecting “life” has revolved around affordable watches. Oh I have flirted with 2000-3000$ watches, had an affair or two with 3000-5000$ and may have even bought a drink for 5000$-10000$ watches, but my main go to is between 500-2000$. This is where I feel most comfortable and it is unfortunate that so many Swiss watch companies have abandoned this segment. 

I understand inflation. Heck, I remember when a Seamaster Professional retailed for 1600$ and you could get a gently pre-loved Submariner for under 2000$ on the forums. Yes, I certainly make more than I used to in those days; in fact, I make what could be considered, a comfortable living. Not rich by any stretch of the imagination, but I do OK. That said, the difference between what I could afford then and what I can afford now is ridiculous! Thankfully, companies like Ball Watch still take us into consideration and produce uncompromised timepieces we can afford and wear with pride.


You would be hard-pressed to find better value elsewhere and I dare you to do so. Now, if you have never owned a Ball Watch before, you may think this could be possible. My challenge to YOU is, own one…  live with one… then, and only then, try and compare. You will see… Once you have owned a Ball Watch, you cannot go without one in your collection and this one just may be the one for you!

A few more pictures, just for fun:

 

 

For more on Ball Watch and their models, please follow this link:

LAVENTURE Watches - another Kickstarter

OK, I know I said that I rarely promote Kickstarter watches and that this is the second in a row, but I stumbled onto this design on Instagram and it needs to be talked about!


Here are the specs:


And some of their models:








They have already exceeded their goal, so I am not trying to push the campaign for more funding, I genuinely like this design. I hope they do well with them and look forward to more from LAVENTURE.

For more details, follow this link:

LAVENTURE on Kickstarter

Tuesday, May 16, 2017

DELTAt - NEW DIVER and Kickstarter campaign!

I do not normally propagate crowdfunded watches, but this one is pretty cool and DELTAt is a company I believe in. I wish them much success with this new project. It looks like a lot of fun to me!

Here is their press release:






DELTAt's text:

Heavy Armor is another bold diver watch from DELTAt’s award-winning designer. Designed with the concept of change in mind, Heavy Armor truly dares to be different! Besides being cool and special, with its changeable armor set system, you can easily dress it up with different sets of bezel plates that give it new looks and feels anytime you want to! You can even mix-and-match the plates with different sets to give the watch a look that is unique on your wrist. Everyone loves being unique, right?

Features of Heavy Armor:
·         120 clicks unidirectional bezel with Changeable Armor Set System
·         1000m/3300ft (100ATM) Water Resistant with Automatic Helium Escape Valve
·         Japan Time Module (Seiko) Automatic Movement Cal. NH35 with Hacking Function
·         Lumed Hour, Minute hand, and Index
·         Surgical grade 316L Stainless Steel
·         8.9mm diameter screw-down crown
·         Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflective coating

And if you would like to help fund them, please follow this link:

DELTAt Heavy Armor on Kickstarter